Wavelength Surfing Magazine

The Indian Subcontinent, a Mecca for travellers, hippies and people into tantric sex with lots of French people, but surfing?

Where? 

Kovalam is a hippy enclave in the province of Kerala in the south west of India. Its original hippie routes have been lost somewhat over the years and it’s really India’s version of Kuta in Bali but with better restaurants and worse surf.

What sort of waves?

Mostly beachies. Right in the middle of town is a particularly heavy beach break which tends to get a bit hectic when it is big but on head high days can offer some decent barrels and whackable walls. The south end has a wedgie little left which can be fun on small swells but pretty hectic when it gets bigger. There are two other beaches in town that tend to close out but all have their moments. To the south and north of Kovalam is an area to explore with rumour of many points and beaches.

Where does the swell come from and when is it best?

The east coast of India does get groundswell but only when a real macker comes up from the southern ocean. The Maldives block a lot of swell but a big south easterly will squeeze up the coast but it’s the monsoon that kicks up most of the swell. The coast in the northern hemisphere winter is pounded by consistent overhead swells, mornings see light to no wind with it strengthening through the day. The northern hemisphere winter has offshores but small swell, the best period is during the transitional autumn and spring times when there is still swell but light winds.

What else is there to do?

Too much to mention really, India is a mind blowing place, literally, if you want it to be. The culture, elephants, temples, yoga, herbal massages what more could you possibly want or need. The food is insane, in all seriousness the vegetarian food in Kovalam is incredible and worth the journey alone.

How do I get there, and where do I stay?

Thiruvavanthapuram (Trivandrum) is an international hub and flights can be obtained direct from the UK or via a single transfer. It’s then just a ten-minute taxi ride from the airport to the beach. If you turn up in the high season, accommodation is a bit tricky to come by and it would be advisable to book (high season is our winter). But the surf is best in low season so it’s pretty easy to rock up and take a stroll along the beachfront until you find a good deal.

Will I score uncrowded world-class waves?

Probably not but you will get some quality surf with very low crowds, and what’s more your non surfing partner will love it as there is tonnes of non surfing stuff to do and a pleasant beach to sunbathe on.