Wavelength Surfing Magazine


Home arrow Latest Issue
 
latest168

Click thumbnails for uber image... nice Print E-mail

The Melting Pot
Image

Bali has long been surfing’s version of paradise. Nowhere in the world are there such a diverse number of waves in such a small area, points, reefs, beaches, heavy barrels, mellow walls, big punt waves all within just tens of minutes of each other. But the island is also home to a kind of dysfunctional surfing colonialism, which has developed over time to leave paradise just a little bit tainted.
Read more in issue 176

Read more in issue 176

How Long You Stay In Bali
Image

I’ve just made it back from another tour of Bali. I think it’s the only place in the world I’ve been to which positively radiates ambience and balls to the wall hecticness all at the same time. I’ve always been mighty fond of the island, but the usual holiday blues which wash over me around the tailend of my stays have been replaced by an emptiness that only estate agents and people who have killed must feel
Read more in issue 176

Read more in issue 176

Dive Dive Dive
Image

If you do lots of surf trips odds are that somewhere along the line something is going to stuff up eventually. Boats sink, cars crash, boards snap and illness strikes. You cannot endure a neverending run of good fortune. No matter how nice you are to other people, how much litter you pick up, how environmentally conscious you are it doesn’t matter a jot. Karma will kick your ass at some point. Gotta have some bad times to appreciate the good. In essence you can be a generally all-round fabulous person and still have shithouse luck.Read more in issue 176

V2
Image

Television only presents manipulated views on the world, the only way to see the truth is through your own eyes, surfing is just an added excuse to explore it.By twelve I had been dragged round Europe, by 15 South and North America. My first experience of the inside of a barrel was in a shorebreak in Brazil, I almost broke my neck. Then it was summers in France, winters in Wales. Winters in Hawaii followed, an obsession that lasted six years, spring in Indo and West OZ. In the late nineties I had an obsession with Ireland, then anywhere cold after that. Throw in a few trips to the South Pacific and the Indian subcontinent and that is my surfing life so far, these are a few images from along the way.
Read more in issue 176

Read more in issue 176
 
[ Back ]